What is the crest of a wave? What is the trough of a wave? What is a shock wave? Which type of wave is a secondary wave? What is a wave profile? What is the wave period? What is a tidal wave? What is a sawtooth wave?
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Wave In physics, mathematics, and related fields, a wave is a propagating dynamic disturbance (change from equilibrium) of one or more quantities, sometimes as described by a wave equation. In physical waves, at least two field quantities in the wave medium are involved. Current A body of wa...
The family sits among piles of UNASSEMBLED PIZZA BOXES and folds them in silence. The crunch of cardboard is the only sound as the cheap Pizza Time logo comes in and goes out of the foreground. They hear a truck rattling closer. Through the window, they see a STREET FUMIGATION TRUCK sp...
As swells move away from the storm area where they formed, they become rounded and begin to flatten. The height of each wave in a swell varies. Height is measured from the lowest point to the highest point of the wave; in other words, it is the difference between the crest of...
The swell period is the amount of time it takes for two successive wave crests to pass through a determined point. Long-period swells harness energy, travel faster, and easily cope with local winds and currents, resulting in larger beach waves. ...
initial wave formation. These determine the quality and size of the ground swell that will hit the surf spot. The second main factor is the local conditions at the surf spot. These have to be right to ensure the swell can create quality waves. Let's look at both of these factors in ...
You can quickly detect a wind swell hitting your home break when you look at the charts, and they indicate a wave period of less than 10 seconds. On the other hand, when the surf forecast predicts a swell interval of between 10 and 20 seconds, then a groundswell is about to land at ...
Who knows what a left-hand point break is? Hands up. Which way does a left-hand wave (or a left-hander as you will soon refer to them) break? A wave is either a left or a right, depending on which direction the wave breaks from the point of view of a surfer paddling and ...