风浪是指当地风产生,且一直处在风的作用之下的海面波动状态。 涌浪是指海面上由其他海区传来的或者当地风力迅速减小、平息,或者风向改变后海面上遗留下来的波动。 特征 风浪和涌浪是海面上最引人注目的波动。在海洋中,风浪和涌浪会单独存在,但往往同时存在,它们的传播方向往往不同。 风浪:波面比较粗糙,往往波峰尖削,...
风浪是指当地风产生,且一直处在风的作用之下的海面波动状态。 涌浪是指海面上由其他海区传来的或者当地风力迅速减小、平息,或者风向改变后海面上遗留下来的波动。 特征 风浪和涌浪是海面上最引人注目的波动。在海洋中,风浪和涌浪会单独存在,但往往同时存在,...
风浪是指当地风产生,且一直处在风的作用之下的海面波动状态。 涌浪是指海面上由其他海区传来的或者当地风力迅速减小、平息,或者风向改变后海面上遗留下来的波动。 特征 风浪和涌浪是海面上最引人注目的波动。在海洋中,风浪和涌浪会单独存在,但往往同时存在,它们的传播方向往往不同。 风浪:波面比较粗糙,往往波峰尖削,...
large measure supplied in the intervening six years [Lighthill, 1962].After a decade of intense study, which has seen the development of numerous wave generation theories ⦠it is now evident that the mechanisms mainly responsible for the most rapid stage of growth of sea waves under ...
The most major wave height anomaly distributions are particularly frequent during the summer. Both the frequency of the most frequent SOM pattern of swell height anomaly and the first mode of EOF shows an increasing trend in swell height. In the East China Sea, the increasing trend of swell ...
& Song, Z. Global 3-hourly wind-wave and swell data for wave climate and wave energy resource research from 1950 to 2100. Nat. Sci. Data 10, 1 (2023). Google Scholar Badriana, M. & Lee, H. S. Multimodel ensemble projections of wave climate in the western north pacific using ...
Study of Ocean Swell THE apparatus for the analysis of waves already described in Naturehas been used to form spectra of a long series of wave observations made at Pendeen and Perranporth on the north-west Cornish coast. BARBER, N,URSELL, F - 《Nature》 被引量: 2发表: 1947年 Employment...
"Wave spectra were measured along a profile extending 160 kilometers into the North Sea westward from Sylt for a period often weeks in 1968 and 1969. During the main experiment in July 1969, thirteen wave stations were in operation, of which six stations continued measurements into the first ...
and the wave model (10 km in both cases), along with the inclusion of the bottom effect, allowed a better description of the wind sea and swell features, compared to previous global studies. The spatial patterns of the swell-dominated regional wave fields are shown to be different from the...
Regions ofintensive wave growth are observed in the northwest Pacific, the northwest Atlantic, the Southern Ocean, and the Mediterranean Sea. Seasonality is distinct for the climate of both swell and wind sea, notably the large-scale northward bending of the swell pools in boreal summer, and ...