Wind input affects the simulated wave evolution across the whole lake, whereas whitecapping primarily affects wave dynamics in deep water. In shallow water, the process of depth‐induced breaking is dominant and highly dependent upon breaker indices and mesh types.Miaohua Mao...
Surface waves in deep and shallow watersSurface wavesNon-linear interactionsEnergy dissipationAerosol fluxesThe motion of water due to surface waves is the most dynamic factor observed in the marine environment. In this review various aspects of the wave modelling of non-linear, steep surface waves ...
Spectral analysis of the measured water surface elevation suggest that in addition to the development of significant long-wave energy, there is also a transfer of energy to the shorter, high frequency, harmonics. This energy redistribution has a significant effect upon the underlying kinematics. In ...
model is developed in a single horizontal dimension and it is used to study phenomena such as solitary waves and their impact on vertical walls, modulational instability in deep water involving recurrence or frequency downshift, and shoaling of regular waves up to breaking in shallow water. ...
In this lesson, you will see how the wavelength of a particular wave impacts the wave's speed in deep waters. You will also learn why this...
In shallow water, waves that are too deep to be stable, causing the crests to move forward faster than the rest of the wave, are called___.A.rollersB.breakersC.white capsD.surfers的答案是什么.用刷刷题APP,拍照搜索答疑.刷刷题(shuashuati.com)是专业
The evolution of large non-breaking waves in intermediate and shallow water. I. Numerical calculations of uni-directional seas In deep water it is well known that the evolution of the largest waves in realistic, broad-banded frequency spectra is governed by dispersive focusing. How... V Katsard...
A study of the Boussinesq equations for waves propagating from deep water to shallow water is presented. In this paper, we derive the O(6) Boussinesq equations with the recursion forms not only for main variables but also coefficients. This greatly reduces the efforts needed to derive the ...
The transition is accomplished by the ship moving from the depth h1 (deep water) over the depth h2 (shallow water). Two right-handed coordinate systems are used: a global reference frame o-x0y0z0 fixed to the leading corner of the step bottom, and a local reference frame o-xyz fixed ...
Supertubos, Peniche, Portugal:Punchy, hollow, and shallow sand-bottom barrels that can break very close to shore even when it’s pumping. Blacks Beach, La Jolla, California:Known for its powerful waves due to a deep underwater canyon right off shore. ...