1. Hook up the second alternator to van's electrical system and then install a split-charge system, or 2. Create a dedicated "house" circuit where the second alternator is only connected to the house batteries, leaving the vehicle's stock electrical system untouched? The adva...
Find the multi-wired harness nearby the alternator and voltage regulator. On the end of the harness is a plastic rectangular plug that has four colored wires attached. The brown wire goes to the ignition, the blue is the field wire and goes to the alternator, the red wire is the positive...
Re-attach all the wiring to the transmission, as well as the starter, kickdown solenoid, oil cooler lines, front crossmembers, torque converter bolts, vacuum hose, and the speedometer and shifter cables. Tighten the starter bolt to 27 foot pounds. Step 4 Adjust the shifter linkage until it ...
NOTE: If you were in a situation where you’ve installed the AFM delete kit, but don’t have access to a programmer—a disabler can still be a viable option. To do this, you need to leave the AFM solenoid pack connected to ensure no codes are thrown. You can reuse the ori...
Position a heavy duty 12 volt automotive battery at the base of the cart, a starter solenoid to activate the starter and a heavy-duty push-button type switch to activate the solenoid. And always fully charge the battery before every pull! 6 volt Ford starter motors are available on eBay ...
construct a rig to support the "Chuck magnet" mentioned earlier, then I'll wrap the magnet until I run out of wire. I will carefully place the magnet & solenoid into my rig, then I'll attach the wires into a light socket (carefully and precisely) to get 120V rather than a little ...
Run a jump cable from the positive battery terminal to either the positive side of the coil, or the red wire that leads to the coil. This will give power to the dashboard, which is essential if you want to start the engine. 3 Locate the starter solenoid. On Ford cars, it is on ...